The charming historic district of Nice, called Vieux Nice or Old Town Nice, is nestled in the heart of the city center, between the sparkling Mediterranean and Castle Hill.
Even though it’s one of the most touristic places to visit on the French Riviera, once-walled Old Nice remains a delightful spot to immerse yourself in the local atmosphere. It’s a maze of winding alleys lined with colorful buildings and home to an abundance of must-sees like the Cours Saleya and Palais Lascaris.
Join me for a tour of the enchanting Vieux Nice area, where you can explore historic landmarks, browse for unique souvenirs, sample fresh produce, and savor local and international cuisine.
My self-guided walk includes a map so that you can easily explore the vibrant colors and flavors of Nice Old Town on your own. It’s based on over a dozen visits to this lively neighborhood and comes with plenty of personal travel tips.
Are you ready to discover Vieux Nice? Let’s dive in!
This is a self-guided walking tour of the Old Town of Nice or Vieux Nice, the historic quarter of this French city. It leads along enchanting squares, interesting churches, unique boutiques, and mouth-watering cuisine.
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My Top Picks
Old Town Nice hotels
Staying in this quintessentially Niçois area means you don’t have to miss out on the lively atmosphere, day or night. It’s also super close to many other attractions and to the beaches that line the Promenade des Anglais.
Old Town Nice cultural & food tours
These are the tours I’d recommend booking in advance. Or check out the detailed guide on my favorite tours in Nice.
Where is the Old Town of Nice, or Vieux Nice
Vieux Nice is nestled against the west flank of Castle Hill, or the Colline du Château. It’s bordered by the Port Lympia in the east, the Jardin Albert I in the West, the Place Garibaldi, the Place Masséna, and the Promenade du Paillon in the North.
The southside gives out to the Baie des Anges and includes the Quai des États-Unis, which is the extension of the Promenade des Anglais, as well as some popular Vieux Nice beaches such as Castel Beach.
A short history of Vieux Nice
Originally, most residents lived in Castle Hill. Thanks to its location and fortification, it offered refuge from the frequent barbarian invasions.
From the 13th century onwards, in a time of relative peace and prosperity, many moved from Castle Hill to the lower neighborhood now known as the Old Town or Le Vieux Nice. This fortified settlement was still considered a safe place to reside, protected by the Mediterranean Sea in the south and the Paillon River in the north.
After the Franco-Turkish siege in 1543, the Dukes of Savoy, who would later also rule the Kingdom of Sardinia, commissioned an overhaul of the defensive system. The Castle was transformed into a vast Citadel, and all residents of the upper town had to move to the Old Town, which was already suffering from a lack of space. There was no other solution but to raise the existing buildings.
In the early 17th century, the Dukes of Savoy took up residence in a newly constructed Palace in Vieux Nice. The ramparts of the Old Town were also reinforced. Soon, the nobility discovered life in Vieux Nice, and the first palatial residences and Baroque-style churches appeared.
Following the War of the Spanish Succession, in 1706, Louis XIV ordered the destruction of Nice’s defensive system. In 1860, Nice was annexed by France and, soon after, tourism bloomed.
Self-guided walking tour of the Old Town of Nice
The winding alleyways of Vieux-Nice are lined with pastel-colored houses and lead to inviting squares, vibrant markets, and stunning baroque churches. This pedestrian zone is bustling with activity from the early morning to late night.
During the hot summer days, the shaded streets of this tourist hotspot provide a cool escape from the sun.
Exploring this historic neighborhood is the number one thing to do in Nice. Even if you spend only one day in Nice, which would be a mistake since three days in Nice is a minimum, Old Town Nice is a non-negotiable.
During your walk, you’ll notice that the street signs indicate two names: one in French and one in Niçois or Nissart, the old local dialect.
Cours Saleya
No better place to start your walking tour of Vieux Nice than the Cours Saleya, the social and commercial hub of Old Nice. This former salt redistribution spot is lined with colorful buildings.
You might notice the flat roofs on the Ponchettes buildings on the south side. They used to form a promenade during the Belle Époque and offered a wonderful observation point to watch the floats of the Nice Carnival when it used to pass by the Cours Saleya.
Nowadays, Cours Saleya is the location for the famous flower and food market. On Mondays, an antique market takes over the square instead, while summer evenings bring an artisan market lined with stalls selling jewelry, souvenirs, and handmade goods. It’s easy to see why the Cours Saleya markets rank among the best markets on the French Riviera.
The many bars that line this historic street provide a vibrant nightlife experience. It’s easy to see why this enchanting hotspot is one of the best places to visit in Nice.
Even after years of exploring Nice, I start every day with a visit to the Cours Saleya market and a stroll on the Promenade des Anglais.
At the corner of the Cours Saleya and the Place Pierre Gautier, you’ll find the Chapelle de la Miséricorde, also known as the Chapelle des Pénitents Noirs, with its yellow facade and cupola fresco.
Opposite the flank of the Chapelle is the Museum of Photography Charles Nègre, where you can admire a collection of photos of Nice from the late 19th and early 20th century, learn more about the evolution of cameras, and visit temporary exhibitions of talented photographers.
Continue to the easternmost side of the Cours Saleya and you’ll see the ochre-hued Palais Caïs de Pierlas. This is Henri Matisse’s former residence before he moved to the Cimiez district.
Look up to see the fresco of Adam and Eve on one of the first buildings on your right. It dates back to 1584.
A bit further, on the opposite side, is a beautiful church named the Église Sainte Rita, also known as the Église de l’Annonciation. The facade may be simple, but inside you’ll find a beautiful baroque interior with impressive frescoes.
Rue Droite
Notice how, on many porticos, you’ll see the inscription IHS. It’s a Christogram that stands for Jesus Hominum Salvator (Jesus, Savior of Humankind) and was derived from the Greek word for Jesus: ΙΗΣΟΥΣ.
You’ll walk past another baroque church, the Église Saint-Jacques-le-Majeur, also known as the Église des Jésuites or the Église du Gesù. It has a hidden bar called Le Béthel.
The colorful passage of umbrellas of the Indian Lounge restaurant leads to Chez Thérésa, where you’ll find signature Niçois dishes. If you haven’t tried the socca or crisp chickpea pancake from their food stall on Cours Saleya, then now’s the time to do so.
A bit further on your left, you’ll find Palais Lascaris. This small museum with its grand staircase features a selection of rare paintings, sculptures, Flemish tapestries, and a vast collection of ancient musical instruments. Palais Lascaris is closed on Tuesdays and certain holidays.
At the corner of Rue Droite and Rue de la Loge, you’ll see a cannonball on display at one of the facades. It was fired in 1543 during the Franco-Turkish siege against the House of Savoy. Other cannonballs from that same attack can still be seen embedded in the Chapel of the Blue Penitents on Garibaldi Square.
On your right, past the museum, you find Galerie ARTNICE. It’s where local artist Sébastien Di Natale displays his creations – from paintings to jewelry – based on the city’s emblematic blue chair. These make for beautiful quintessentially Niçois souvenirs.
Saint-François
On your right, you’ll find the Alexis Monod Chocolaterie. It’s known for its tasteful pairings of chocolate with local ingredients such as roses from the Nice hinterland and lemons from Menton.
Head further north and you’ll come across Girofle et Cannelle, a vintage-looking treasure trove of herbs, spices, and teas.
The Tour Saint-François, a 50-meter-high former Franciscan bell tower, stands proudly behind the leafy pocket square. This tower dates back to the 13th century, but the clock and bell were added in the 1830s.
On weekends, you can climb the spiral staircase – all 288 steps – leading to the summit. It’s one of my favorite viewpoints in Nice with a spectacular 360-degree panorama over Nice and the Mediterranean Sea.
Porte Fausse
The False Door or Porte Fausse is a passage created right after the demolition of the city walls in 1706. It symbolizes the gateway between the Old Town and the New Town and between history and the future.
Feel free to admire it from both sides, but make sure to stay in Vieux Nice to continue this walk.
Place Rossetti
You’ll arrive at Place Rossetti, one of the most enchanting squares in the Old Town. It’s framed by the imposing Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate and three rows of restaurants.
One of those businesses is the popular Fenocchio ice cream parlor, where you can find the most enticing flavors such as violet, lavender, ginger, Chocolate Chili, and even Olive.
But the battle is on at the Place Rossetti because many more ice cream parlors sell equally tempting boules de glace. How about a scoop of Provençal fig, lemon tart, or cassis de Bourgogne from Azzuro?
Behind the alluring red facade in front of you is a boutique called Trésors Publics where you’ll find artisanal goods from all over France, from espadrilles from Saint-Tropez to mustards from Dijon.
Around the corner lies Rotisserie Du Palais Norbert, a restaurant famous for its tourte aux blettes, a local specialty made with chard.
On the building across the street, high up on the facade, you’ll see a plaque in Italian that reads Niccolo Paganini. It’s the residence where the renowned violinist spent his final years.
Place Masséna
On your right, you’ll see the beautiful facade of Wemood Nice, where you’ll find a collection of posters, puzzles, trays, and more decorative and stationery items in the most cheerful colors.
Across from the beautiful clock tower on the Palace of Justice is a specialty shop called Le Palais d’Osier, which houses a collection of wicker and straw baskets, bags, and hats. It has been operating in the same location for more than a century.
On your right-hand side, you’ll find La Boulisterie. This concept store is all about pétanque, the signature Provençal boules sport that originated in La Ciotat near Cassis. The pétanque sets on offer make for truly original Provençal gifts or souvenirs.
The street opens up at Place Masséna, one of the top tourist attractions in Nice. Red-ochre buildings and checkered pavement frame this grand central square.
The part of Place Masséna that fringes Old Nice is dominated by the Fontaine du Soleil (Sun Fountain). It features a towering 7-meter marble statue of Apollo amid water jets and bronze figures representing Earth, Mars, Mercury, and Saturn.
At the end of the street, on the right-hand corner, you’ll find the Molinard boutique. The local outlet of this iconic French perfume house, which has its roots in Grasse, offers workshops. Discover the wonderful world of scents and compose your very own perfume after reservation.
Choose between a 45-minute workshop with a 30 ml bottle of perfume, a 1-hour workshop with a 50 ml bottle, or a 2-hour workshop with a 90 ml bottle.
On your right-hand side is the Opera House. If you’d like to learn more about the rich history of this stately building, then you can reserve a guided tour on the website of the Nice Côte d’Azur Opera.
Maison Auer, a family-owned business founded in 1820, is housed in a gorgeous Florentine-style shop opposite the Opera House. The boutique is renowned for its artisan products and specializes in candied fruit, which is made to perfection according to the original recipe.
Hotels in the Old Town of Nice
The Old Town is a wonderful place to stay in Nice, thanks to its central location, and you’ll find a handful of hotels in Vieux Nice.
It’s important to consider that hotels located in the pedestrian zone of Old Nice may be more challenging to access with luggage. Also, this area is lively day and night, and noise levels may vary depending on the exact location of your Vieux Nice hotel.
Here’s an overview of the best hotels in Old Town Nice:
Restaurants in the Old Town of Nice
As I mentioned before, Vieux Nice is touristy. There are restaurants, especially some that line the Cours Saleya, that are tourist traps, serving subpar food for exorbitant prices. But there are also many delightful gems to be found if you know where to look.
Here’s an overview of my favorite restaurants in Old Nice:
Nice Old Town map
The following Vieux Nice map will help you visualize this walking tour. It mentions the top things to do in Old Nice, along with my favorite Vieux Nice restaurants and shops featured in this article.
FAQ about the Old Town of Nice, France
When will you explore Vieux Nice?
That’s it for this travel guide on Vieux Nice. Now it’s up to you to immerse yourself in the captivating atmosphere of this enchanting neighborhood.
Stay tuned for more walking tours in Nice and on the Côte d’Azur!
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